Life in The Family International

Next destination: Karamoja. I can hardly wait! It’s said to be one of the most interesting yet most seldom-visited places in Uganda. I’ve been there once before, and I know that this second trip I am preparing for tomorrow will be yet another unforgettable weekend!

It is a day’s journey to Karamoja, a region which lies just under the border of Kenya and Sudan. A land whose inhabitants remain true to their heritage and traditional ways of life. I don’t think I’ll forget last year’s sights of people walking the streets in nothing but beads and colorful cloth (cloth which at times covered nothing at all!) They are a part of Uganda that has managed to separate itself somewhat from the rest of the modern world, hardly letting today’s changes or politics put a dent in their traditions and culture.

The most important thing to a Karimojong (what the people of Karamoja are called) would have to be their cows. If you die defending a person, they’ll nod and approve. Die defending a cow and wow, you’re really a manly man! The cattle are essential for bridal dowry. A girl can be worth a hundred cows or a thousand. And of course, when the man lacks the amount demanded by a family, he must resort to often violent ways of procuring more. Hence the frequent cattle-raiding and defending of cattle and the many lives lost as a result.

We’re mostly visiting camps in Karamoja to bring relief and donated goods widows and orphans who have lost their men from cattle raids. Strange, isn’t it? I still find this part of Uganda fascinating—a world entirely unlike the one we know. The local lore is that Karamoja came about when a great migration across the land took place. The elders, who were slower than the younger warriors, insisted on stopping when they reached the Apule river. This caused dissension, with some moving on, and others staying behind to settle. So they named it Karamoja, meaning “the old men are tired.”

As far as I know it’s just a legend, but appropriate I suppose. The ones who stayed behind and became the tenders of the land and cattle now number roughly 250,000 people. They’ve stayed by the river with their old ways and customs and dress and love for cows. They say Karimojongs can tell you what direction to go to find water simply by looking at a cow’s intestines!

Many visitors are freaked at the sight of the warriors. The ones we encountered on our last visit were for the most part bearing AK-47s (a strange anachronism). The danger depends pretty much on their mood at the time though. Or necessity. To defend their territory, they fight. To find food and water, they will fight. The men bear warrior scars tattooed all across their bodies. One funny story told by a friend of mine was that on an expedition they were held up by Karimojong gun-totting warriors, who took nothing but the glass headlight coverings of their 4×4. What for? You may ask. To make beads, of course! Their beads are their wealth, and these people display them proudly. Last time visiting I tried bartering with some Thai beads for their own colorful ones. They flatly refused to trade with me.

Another thing you need on a trip to Karamoja is bagfuls of sweets. The people will mob you for candy! Especially the old grandmas, we discovered. What it is about the sugar balls, I don’t know, but the Karimojong would hold out their hands and shake their heads excitedly at the sight of foreigners, insisting that they be given “tum-tum.”

Well, I plan on coming back on Tuesday with lots of stories to tell and adventures to blog about. I am so privileged! Last week I was treated to a game park, and tomorrow I get the real thing—people living as they have been for thousands of years. The Africans whose lives have seemed to come to a standstill in time. I’m supposed to leave with the team at 5:00am tomorrow and I haven’t packed a single thing yet. I really should start thinking about packing.

Nyx is a vounteer Missionary Member of The Family International. Her missions have taken her through South East Asia, India, East Africa and South Africa. She currently runs charity projects for terminally-ill, indigent children in The Philippines and is also a child-education consultant, youth counsellor, freelance writer for TV, radio, magazines, a voice-talent, illustrator, artist, Events Host and Music Marketer. She is the eldest of 13 siblings, and a Taurean who enjoys spicy food, open-bar nights, long baths, photographing people, and throwing festive parties. Dislikes: Whiny women, bratty children, spoiled men. More about Nyx

This entry was posted on Saturday, July 23rd, 2005 at 4:14 pm and is filed under Family Life, Outreach. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.